Here, is where we are.

Slightly recovered from three days of fever in Amsterdam, not (yet) a festival fever, just a bad fever. In fact to be more precise, a protracted flu I must have caught halfway through the flight from Manila to Amsterdam while having to endure the unnecessary annoyance of being seated among a group of rich Filipino teenagers on a European football tour adolescent raging hormones whose means of coping with a 13 hour flight was noisily chatting and complaining non-stop about how long the flight was. Yes, it was the worst flight of my life. But all that is over, now. And now, in Essen it feels as though I have already arrived. Jetlag out of the day, fever and chills out of the way, the sun is out today, and it seems like it will be for the next couple of days that we will be around.
This is probably my third trip to Germany, and yet I found it difficult to explain to family and some few associates where in Germany I was exactly bound for. Not that we weren't told, in fact everything has precisely been laid out for us even the hour and a half "free time" we get the day after tomorrow in between coming back from Wuppertal, before heading for Zollverein World Heritage Site in Essen. I guess it was because there was a lot moving between cities and towns for the next couple of days, traveling on the S-Bahn Interregional train line or driving without speed limits through the autobahn. The Theater der Welt is spread out between the cities of Essen and Müllheim, not really far apart from each other, in fact a convenient 10 minute direct train ride from central station (which is well-situated in front of our hotel) or less than 30 minutes drive by car. Still the idea of moving from one city to another, several times a day, carried some sort of illusory mental distance that stirred some anticipation that the next days to come won't be such a drifting walk-in-park adventure, save for Willie Dorner's Urban Drifting that takes place tomorrow. I live in a vast city, even if I live in the suburbs I've never acquired the patience for commuting to one end of town to another. Anything beyond biking or walking distance to me is 'far.' Of course, my self-reflexive subjective will force me to say: "Funny to hear from someone who is out of Manila at least 3-4 times a year." So for the sake of being succinct, it's safe to say that we were in Essen but to be more precise, we are at the North-Rhine Westphalia, or to be really precise we are at the Theater of the World.
First stop after checking in at Mövenpick Essen (our hotel) was to lobby to meet Elgin Wolf of the NRW Kultur Sekretariat. The NRW Kultur Sekretariat is the awesome organization who has brought 11 of us, curators and journalists, together under the International Visitor's Programme "Theater der Welt in the European Culture Capital: Ruhr 2010. So we are all here now, well almost, with Nayse Lopez of Festival Panorama in Brazil and Martin Ambara from Othni-Laboratoire de Theatre de Yaoundé, in Cameroon joins and on Saturday Matthew Jocelyn of Canadian Stage in Toronto will be with us.
After exchanging our customary introductions, curious incursions on each other's contexts and mandatory explanations of the hats and roles we wear or inhibit to wear at the present moment we make our way to Müllheim to catch Bouchra Ouizguen's Madame Plaza at the Theater an der Ruhr. The theater space that Elgin jokingly calls the theater at the end of the world, for its not-so-walking distance location from the Müllheim Hauptbanhof.

The discussions are carried over the duration of our short trip to the theater, and as typical of encounters such as this, each 'country' compared notes and observations on each one's specific performing arts, dance, theater making conditions. Most engaging was Matthew Karouse, journalist from South Africa, who never did once fail to situate every snippet on information within the wider geopolitical and historical context told from the lens of someone living and working in South Africa. I know so little of South Africa, or Poland, or Lebanon, or Brazil, or more so Cameroon, that I've realized that after this trip aside from the invaluable exposure to current contemporary theater practices from around the world what I will really be taking home with me is a deeper curiosity about the world and global politics affecting cultural production.

Arriving at the theater I am re-united with very good friend/drinking/eccentric discourse buddy Maja Friedrich who so happen to be working as marketing staff of the festival. Of course, we had to suspend the excitement of catching up until all the formalities, our arrival and her manning the ticketing, has been put aside. She was, after all there to work, and I was there after all to work. Meanwhile, Tomasz, Inger-Margrethe Lunde of Aftenposten, Noway and I take our first tourist drink of the day to warm up and prepare ourselves for the daunting task of watching. Curator Hanane Hajj-Ali from Beirut puts Yusuke Hashimoto, curator of Kyoto Experiment, on the hot seat and asks him about the "one thing he will die for" - a silly question to open up interesting conversation. But laughter takes over even before Yusuke manages to reply; perhaps a clever compositional step-up to move on to the more important business of the evening, Madame Plaza.





