Jan went on, ‘Last week – after Germany beat Australia – he insisted that I also wear a tattoo. I tried to resist but four-year-olds can be very persuasive. As he transferred it on to my shoulder I suddenly realised that I was wearing the German colours for the very first time in my life.’

Americans grow up wrapped in the flag. The stars-and-stripes flutters above every school and in the background of every Bruce Springsteen video. Canadians never travel abroad without a maple leaf pin. Australians sport their flag as a swimming costume. But until recently the few Germans who raised their national colours were considered to be unusual at best, and right-wing extremists at worst. No German put his hand over his heart while singing the national anthem. No school flew the flag when Jan was a boy.
‘How did we learn not to wave the flag?’ asked Jan, a world traveller who is nearing his 50th birthday. ‘We simply did not do it.’
But this month almost every other car in the land flaunts the schwarz-rot-gold. Germany flags – along with those of England, Brazil and Argentina – hang from a dozen balconies along my street. Girls parade their colours in the U-Bahn. So why is it that Germans have been so reluctant to show pride in Germany – until now?
‘In being German you are always aware of the past, and there are a lot of things of which you cannot be proud,’ Jan explained to me. ‘During the time of the Third Reich flags flew all over Germany, and they weren’t even our own. This meant that we developed a disturbed relationship with flags. So for decades afterwards there was a very strong counter-reaction. We hid away our flag – and our patriotism.’
Four summers ago the country rediscovered patriotism when it hosted the last World Cup. In 2006 Germans realized that they could feel pride in their team and nation without suffering a sense of guilt for crimes committed during the Second World War or under the communist regime.
Chancellor Angela Merkel observed at the time, ‘People are waving flags without having to justify themselves. Fifteen years ago, things were different. Our relation to our country has become something beautiful, but in a normal and not an arrogant way.’
‘I agree with Frau Merkel,’ said Jan with a laugh, ‘which is quite unusual for me. During the 2002 World Cup, which was played in Korea and Japan, I don’t remember anyone waving the Germany flag. By 2006 it had changed.’
But not everyone is at ease with the born-again nationalism. Last week a thoughtful, 16-year-old Berlin student told me, ‘This football frenzy and flag waving leaves me feeling ... uneasy. I worry what foreigners will think of us.’
I assured her that, for me at least, today’s nationalism is benign, especially in the context of World Cup football. But my answer didn’t satisfy her.
‘One thing keeps bothering me,’ she went on. ‘At school we’ve been studying the Second World War for two whole years, and every time the teacher brings it up again the whole class moans. But you know, no matter how often we talk about it, one question remains unanswered. We know what happened and when it happened but none of us can answer how it happened. How was it possible that so few Germans stood up against fascism?’
Germany’s pride in itself has been reestablished through the remarkable achievements of the post-war years, with the passage of time, in European integration and the reunification of the country’s two halves. Yet it this question, and the untiring determination to find an answer, which most enhances Germans as individuals and as a nation. Modern Germany – in a courageous, humane and moving manner – continues to subject itself to national psychoanalysis. More than any other nation – football-playing or not – Germany insists on facing its history, in the conviction that for the psychic health of a society past actions must be understood as a condition of healing.
For these reasons Germans rightly celebrate themselves; in Aachen, in Wolfsburg, in Frankfurt, and even in Munich, where my friend Jan is settling down to watch Team Germany push on to victory – with four-year-old Paul on his lap and Germany’s national colours discreetly, finally, displayed on his shoulder.






I understand the German tentativeness, and it doesn't help when World War 2 stories, at least in America, run rampant. That was another topic I talked with my German friends about - the American fascination with World War 2. I think it is sometimes hard for Americans, especially those who have not traveled abroad or studied different cultures (and I say this as an American) to separate World War 2 Germany with Germany today. No country is the same as they were 50 years ago, we've all changed and developed and Germany has had such a positive impact on the world.
The topic of German patriotism is definitely an interesting one. Stories and posts like this always touch my heart. I am rooting for Germany in this World Cup and hope to be back in the country soon!
Gut gemacht!
Stephanie
I find the problem with Germans and WII is that they're incredibly defensive. As we know, defense comes from a point of view where you can't explain why something happened. As much as Germans are, without question, aware of their nation's history - they take on the burden of defense - yet so many young Germans have nothing to do with their own past. The alternative is to accept and move on. But Germany doesn't do this. No, Germany doesn't even raise concerns at protests in Israel to visiting Angela Merkel. Why on earth not? Angela Merkel is an excellent Chancellor and a bastion of freedom, progress and development.
Let me explain. At what point do the British teach children about the unforgivable atrocities of the British Empire? They don't. Most British children, or French for that matter, don't have even a basic understanding of the murderous holocauslistic subjugation their forefathers undertook. Even perversely, the English flag is seen as an uncomfortable sign to many Brits more so than the British flag (despite England having no independence or freedom from "British Rule"). Whilst in Germany, children painfully are taken through all details to the point of bordem.
Add to this national obsession of WII reflection the fact Germany IS Europe's powerhouse. Germany thinks European and, despite the reflection of history, is quite domineering in seeing Europe goes the way of Germany. It craves to drive Europe, but is too fearful of overtly doing so. Instead Germany plays diplomatic ping-pong with France and relentlessly attempts to avoid offending anyone. Talk about complexities.
When the Bild says "Europe likes us afterall" after winning Eurovision - clearly something is not quite right. How did a country get so proud at winning Eurovision?
German pride is desperate to be let out. Just what is this country holding back for? Because something nasty could be bottled up for the future...
Third, I am not convinced sectarianism as practiced by sports fans is benign. The enthusiasm of a four year old boy should, if anything, argue for caution and moderation. In Canada, Hockey legitimates anti social behaviour among fans and players. As Laura Robinson documented in her book "Crossing the Line", pre-professional hockey culture is rife with extreme sexism and sexual abuse. Which brings me to my last point, the rah rah spirit is first and foremost an opportunity for uninhibited expression of aggression. We should know by now that this force is potentially dangerous and and also toxic to standards of civility.
As for the Germans, Their urbane cosmopolitanism and moderate approach to flag waving is an inspiration. It's a relief to come to Berlin to get away from the loutish sectarianism extant elsewhere.
Btw. this blog is brilliant, just discovered it today. Thank you for all the articles.