Istanbul: Fragments of Culture (s)

In fact, if I would take 'culture' as the whole set of cultural practices, e.g. traditions, customs, morals, attitudes, beliefs, and their related symbols that distinctly mark our 'Istanbulees', I would fill pages. And wouldn't ever know where to start. Instead, taking the term in a more narrow sense of 'art', even 'fine art' the field would probably be easier to map. But given that only a particularly small segment of Istanbul's citizen's do actually visit exhibitions, attend concerts, or stroll through the museums this seems not sufficient either. Moreover, this would neglect a lot of details glimpsing through this city's everyday life's practices which I personally, regard as more meaningful.

So, what to refer to now? Anyway, let's just take some snapshots. Therewith risking to miss the balance between saying nothing and reproducing clichees (which are, nonetheless, commonly said to have to true core ...)

So, what comes to mind first? Ataturk. Sure, the founder of the Turkish Republic certainly makes out an (if not the most) important fragment of culture here. Indeed, the number of monuments, sculptures, and busts this city is home to is sheer endless. There is virtually NO shop, no office, even no flat, where the great leader's likeness is not overlooking the scenery. The same goes for the Turkish flag, naturally.

Republican days are celebrated in great style, with fireworks worth millions of dollars and even the city's traffic is stopped for some hours. Not to forget, the minute of his death, when every year again the whole city freezes in a silent minute. And though Turks do grumble and complain about their country, state and politics in particular, with passion they would not like to hear the same from an outsider, respectively.

Patriotism, national pride is surely one thing which holds this county's people together, across all and otherwise so different political factions. Given the long history of Ottoman multiculturalism this, indeed, seems sometimes a kind of schizophrenic. Of course, every Istanbulee is proud on the richness of diverse cultural artifacts the city has to offer, ranging from Greek and Roman aqueducts over Seljuk and Ottoman mosques and palaces to 'modern' business and consume temples. Indeed, strolling the streets of the city's historical center one simply stands in the middle of 'culture', where virtually every single stone bears the traces of a multitude of eras and ethnics which, over the last millennia made their way through this piece of earth.

Does religion play a role, too? Sure! What would be Istanbul without the minarets, enthroned above the roofs. Hard to imagine there would be no 'ezan', the religious call for prayer which fills the air five times a day. It's 'Ramadan' soon, the Muslim's holy month of fasting – when even the city's most crowded lifestyle and party quarter calms down suddenly.

But Islamic culture is by far not everything this city has to offer. What is maybe more fascinating is the mix of religions one stumbles across here. Though most churches and synagogues are shut down nowadays and though, due to several reasons, (religious) minorities do not have an easy stand in Turkey at all, there are still a lot of Jewish, Armenian, Catholic or Greek Orthodox sites and traces to discover. So, don't be surprised if you hear church bells on a Sunday morning either.

How does a typical living room of an average Turkish family – whatever that means – look like in Istanbul? Well, let's say, it's crowded. Turks are great collectors and so every house uses to be filled up to the roof with wonderful stuff. In Istanbul's vitrines I saw collections of everything, from cups and glasses, over paper tissues to candy wrappings and even Nutella glasses. Is that kitschy? Is that cute? Well, in any case, it's kind of homey. Bed's and couches need dozens of pillows, tables need a similar amount of covers. With tea and eating culture playing great roles too, of course. Visitors always welcome. Hospitality is amazing here!

Next point: Group culture. Also very dominant in whole Turkey. Doing things alone is pretty uncommon here. Being 'together' is what counts. If one person leaves a party, everyone leaves. Family's are huge and the most central core of everything. And although the more and more internationalizing city atmosphere certainly does it's best to confuse a lot of traditional role patterns, these still prove to be surprisingly resistant.

Hm, what else? Well, people here know to relax, they know to make themselves comfortable, even in the most abstruse situations. They are not easily to shock. They are unbelievable busy and hard working. But they definitely know how to have fun. They are loud, they usually all talk in the same time, they love music, they know how to dance ...

Well, what can I say more: I love the Turks, the Istanbulees, whatever...