In fact, summing up Istanbul's treasury of cultural and historic variety is unmanageable. Starting from the big historical empires – Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman – over the multitude of minorities more or less influential during Ottoman times – namely Greeks, Armenians, French, Germans, Genoese, Levantines, Spanish and Sephardic Jews – to all those uncountable ethnic groups (Kurds, Laz, Syrians, Pomaks, Zaza, Roma ..) and immigrants (Africans, Arabs, Eastern European and Asian people) which found their way to the city in more recent times … They all shaped it, they all left their footsteps in terms of specific lifestyles, architecture, spiritual places and cultural festivities.
Tuesday, May 17. 2011
Istanbul – Destroy it, and build it up again?!
by Kristina Kamp
Indeed, Istanbul IS a hot spot for anyone interested in religion, history, architecture, ethnology. And, more than that, it is – or was, will hopefully always be – a home for a colorful, multicultural mosaic of different people.
But, however, let's have a closer look at what is promoted today as the city's historical center, 'Sultanahmet' respectively. Sure, with it's density of historical and cultural heritage it, admittedly, IS impressing, and certainly gives matter for a year-long visit if one wishes exploring everything in detail. However, when you take into account that this part of the city once had the double size of what is today, one stumbles. Indeed, during the last 50 years a huge part of the city's original and diverse neighborhoods had to give way for apartment houses and hotels. They were de-constructed and constructed again, cut and polished and renovated. All so for two reasons: One was to serve the increasing flow of tourists whose taste is assumed to want it 'clean', 'modern' and practical. And the other one was simply to cope with the exploding inhabitant numbers of the city, for which housing space was needed. In somehow, of course these are necessities, owed to exploding population numbers and economic development. A logical side effect of a rapidly growing and developing metropolis, let's say.
However, if one takes a closer look at the latest mammoth projects driven by the governing Justice and Development Party (AKP) during the last decade, at least I start feeling sick. 'Modernizing tradition' is, apparently not only what makes the AKP that popular, it is also finds expression in the authority's city planning strategy: The ideal of a metropolis which is developed, clean, well-organized, 'modern', entertaining, with a taste of luxury and glamour. Cutely packaged Ottoman history, well-conditioned religious and cultural relics for everybody's taste.
To sum it up: 'Destroy it. And build it up again.' Don't get me wrong but I really think that this is what describes the present Turkish style of protecting cultural heritage best. Honestly, when you stroll through some old streets you find examples where one destroyed parts of an ancient wall to built it up again with clinker, the tidy way of course.
The latest and most famous examples in this context, which also made it to the international media are therefore probably those of Sulukule and Tarlabasi. Both, indeed, have been 'problematic' in terms of crime rates and social exclusion, domicile of day laborers, drug dealers and sex workers. But also living quarters for many less privileged which, indeed, made their living here. Whereas Sulukule is known to be the first district in the world permanently occupied by sedentary Roma communities, the latter was domicile of the Jewish, Armenian and Greek middle class in particular during the last century of the Ottoman Empire. It's specific architecture with beautifully ornamented facades and architectural styles still gives the visitor a glimpse of that times. Both neighborhoods, however, fell victim to the municipalities rigid clean-up policy. 'Urban transformation' projects, driven by private investors in collaboration with governmental agencies don't give a penny for protecting old city substance or local inhabitants. And so Sulukule will turn into a colorful 'historical' entertainment park, and Tarlabasi will become a well-polished business and shopping district.
And what for all this? Well, the new middle class, besides still the AKP's most important voter's base, likes that plans. Conservative, religious, economically powerful, hard-working, such people of course love the idea of making the city cleaner, and safer.
And honestly, can we resent them?
In today's Istanbul one want's to feel 'modern', one adores skyscrapers and some kind sophisticated cultural and historical entertainment to re-affirm the own roots is welcome, too. Well, in today's Istanbul it is the dream of many to live in a gated community.
Indeed, Istanbul IS a hot spot for anyone interested in religion, history, architecture, ethnology. And, more than that, it is – or was, will hopefully always be – a home for a colorful, multicultural mosaic of different people.
But, however, let's have a closer look at what is promoted today as the city's historical center, 'Sultanahmet' respectively. Sure, with it's density of historical and cultural heritage it, admittedly, IS impressing, and certainly gives matter for a year-long visit if one wishes exploring everything in detail. However, when you take into account that this part of the city once had the double size of what is today, one stumbles. Indeed, during the last 50 years a huge part of the city's original and diverse neighborhoods had to give way for apartment houses and hotels. They were de-constructed and constructed again, cut and polished and renovated. All so for two reasons: One was to serve the increasing flow of tourists whose taste is assumed to want it 'clean', 'modern' and practical. And the other one was simply to cope with the exploding inhabitant numbers of the city, for which housing space was needed. In somehow, of course these are necessities, owed to exploding population numbers and economic development. A logical side effect of a rapidly growing and developing metropolis, let's say.
However, if one takes a closer look at the latest mammoth projects driven by the governing Justice and Development Party (AKP) during the last decade, at least I start feeling sick. 'Modernizing tradition' is, apparently not only what makes the AKP that popular, it is also finds expression in the authority's city planning strategy: The ideal of a metropolis which is developed, clean, well-organized, 'modern', entertaining, with a taste of luxury and glamour. Cutely packaged Ottoman history, well-conditioned religious and cultural relics for everybody's taste.
To sum it up: 'Destroy it. And build it up again.' Don't get me wrong but I really think that this is what describes the present Turkish style of protecting cultural heritage best. Honestly, when you stroll through some old streets you find examples where one destroyed parts of an ancient wall to built it up again with clinker, the tidy way of course.
The latest and most famous examples in this context, which also made it to the international media are therefore probably those of Sulukule and Tarlabasi. Both, indeed, have been 'problematic' in terms of crime rates and social exclusion, domicile of day laborers, drug dealers and sex workers. But also living quarters for many less privileged which, indeed, made their living here. Whereas Sulukule is known to be the first district in the world permanently occupied by sedentary Roma communities, the latter was domicile of the Jewish, Armenian and Greek middle class in particular during the last century of the Ottoman Empire. It's specific architecture with beautifully ornamented facades and architectural styles still gives the visitor a glimpse of that times. Both neighborhoods, however, fell victim to the municipalities rigid clean-up policy. 'Urban transformation' projects, driven by private investors in collaboration with governmental agencies don't give a penny for protecting old city substance or local inhabitants. And so Sulukule will turn into a colorful 'historical' entertainment park, and Tarlabasi will become a well-polished business and shopping district.
And what for all this? Well, the new middle class, besides still the AKP's most important voter's base, likes that plans. Conservative, religious, economically powerful, hard-working, such people of course love the idea of making the city cleaner, and safer.
And honestly, can we resent them?
In today's Istanbul one want's to feel 'modern', one adores skyscrapers and some kind sophisticated cultural and historical entertainment to re-affirm the own roots is welcome, too. Well, in today's Istanbul it is the dream of many to live in a gated community.
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